For a brand that’s been so focused on wringing out every bit of potential from their clearly very talented team of complications boffins, this year’s Watches and Wonders releases may seem a bit tame – but that’s until you look under the hood. An all-new micro-rotor calibre debuts in the Overseas, and the collectible Everest is somewhat revived with a quartet of new Overseas Dual Time models, while the American 1921 and Égérie get subtle, and artsy updates.
Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin Micro-Rotor
At first glance, this looks just like any third-generation Overseas, minus the seconds hand. But look a little closer – namely round back – and you’ll see what it’s all about. VC calls it the Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, but I think it has every right to be known as the Overseas Micro-Rotor, thanks to the beautiful new, Poinçon de Genève calibre 2550, the result of a seven-year development process that shows just why Vacheron is a brand that’s on top of their game. In all of its 2.4mm of thickness, it sports a coaxially mounted double barrel in series, meaning an 80-hour power reserve, topped off by a bi-directional, platinum micro-rotor, while the double-sided bridge holds a balance beating at 3Hz. Does the revived UG have some competition or what?
Those truly ultra-slim proportions mean the case sits at under 8mm, with a 39.5mm diameter and crafted in platinum. The Overseas Micro-Rotor features 50 metres of water-resistance, which might not be loads for what is still a sports watch, but something I can forgive for those wonderful dimensions and salmon lacquer dial. Now put this movement in literally everything, Vacheron, and don’t make it limited. Thanks.
Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points
Following in the footsteps of the 2019 Cory Richards special Everest prototype, Vacheron Constantin is unveiling four new colourways of the Dual Time embracing the matte silhouettes. The cases feature richly brushed titanium surfaces, matched with four subtle dial tones with grained finishes – blue, brown, white, and green.
The models all feature VC’s 5110 DT/3 calibre, offering a date sub-dial and secondary time zone pointed out by the large, orange hand and the AM/PM indicator at 9 o’clock. It’s an asymmetric design that’s become well-loved, and a rare, tooltastic approach to watchmaking by a brand usually synonymous with understated elegance. While not expressly limited in production, they are boutique-exclusive editions.
Historiques American 1921
The 1921 is a watch that hasn’t had much attention from Vacheron recently, and something I’m very happy to report changes today. Its cambered dial and cushion case were taken straight from a model produced during the golden era of aero-automotive design, meant to assist its wearers putting up with those oversized wooden steering wheels of old.
The American 1921’s latest expression sees it feature a stunning grained silver dial with contrasting blue Breguet numerals and hands, fitted to 36.5mm or 40mm pink gold cases. The manually wound 4400 AS is still on display, and just as pretty as you remember it being.
Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom
Having served as a canvas for blending haute horlogerie and couture previously, VC’s latest Égérie gets a calf strap featuring hand-painted, white blossoms in addition to lacquered alligator and grosgrain numbers, giving its wearers plenty of pairing options. As for colours, this particular Égérie is all about pink – great for all those Wednesdays – with nacre for both the main and sub-dial, rimmed in diamond-set pink gold and further pink gold accents. The unusual moonphase placement is courtesy of the 1088 L calibre, visible through the transparent caseback and providing a 40-hour power reserve at a 4Hz beat rate.
