After decades of dormancy and years since the announcement that Breitling’s parent group has purchased the name, we’re finally being treated to a new-look Universal Genève. With no less than 37 new references launched as part of this historic revival, there are things expected and unexpected, but only one for certain – the new management is taking this seriously, and looking to elevate the brand to heights it hasn’t been privy to before. Their strategy is centred around a fashion brand approach – but not in the Michael Kors and Calvin Klein way – rather inspired by haute couture and their approach to structuring their collections. The core of the brand is in the Prêt-à-porter models, stalwarts of the collection and all inspired by Universal’s past, but refreshed for the modern audience. Capsule collections will be seasonally limited takes on the ready-to-wear lines, with a uniquely artistic angle ultimately allowing them to both introduce and follow trends. The most exclusive is the Couture collection, reserved for high jewellery creations with a watchmaking artisan’s touch. Finally, to allow themselves as much freedom in making the most of a respectable back catalogue, Universal is also offering the Signature collection, meant to bring game-changing models of the past to the forefront. Without further ado, this is what Le Couturier de la Montre has in store.
Polerouter Prêt-à-porter
Undoubtedly the most anticipated model that’s part of this revival is the Polerouter. Its multifaceted appeal spans historical relevance thanks to its use by the SAS (the airline, not the elite British forces in this case), and the initial designed being penned by a young Gérald Genta, who’s gone on to do relatively well for himself. For us collectors, it was also the in-the-know watch for a long time, a signal to our fellow WIS that we’re deep down the rabbit hole. The relaunch sees no fewer than 11 new models split between ready-to-wear and capsule collections, with 37mm and 39mm examples across both.
The RTW line’s 39mm Polerouters are equipped with a date and available in steel or rose gold, with the standout model being the blue dial with that awesome brick bracelet. For the 37mm line, the new UG is clearly targeting a more feminine audience, or perhaps those looking for a dressier proposition, eschewing the date, minute markings, and lume, though I do fear they’ve gone too minimal, making for a less detailed dial. They’re all powered by the new UG-110 micro-rotor calibre, offering three days of power reserve from two barrels, topped up by a three-quarter-size gold oscillating weight.
Polerouter Capsule Hardstone and 37mm Capsule Camaïeu
The two seasonal collections for the new Polerouter include a stone-dialled trio in 39mm, as well as a set of 37mm models with camaïeu-painted dials. The former is a smart play given how popular stone dials are at the moment, but also reference the brand’s historical use of the material, in the Polerouter for the first time. To match the drastic change in market position that’s coming with this relaunch, I’m glad to see UG going a step further to elevate their offering, here seen by the use of stone marquetry to highlight the sector dial design.
As for the colourful Camaïeu collection, that same idea is executed by making the most of the eponymous painting technique. By using ever so slightly different shades of the same hue, UG is able to once again put an emphasis on the crosshair splitting the dial into four quadrants. They also help the brand’s haute couture direction land with the use of bold colours, diamond-setting, and sharing the name with a defunct fashion label. Just like the Prêt-à-porter models, they all use the UG-110 calibre that’s on display via the caseback.
Compax Prêt-à-porter
When it comes to vintage UG collecting, Compax is king thanks to models like the Nina Rind. That’s the very reference this revival is tributing, going as far as outfitting one of the models with a matching bund strap, just how the Finnish supermodel used to wear hers, but upping the diameter from 37mm to 39mm. As expected, these are once again not the tooltastic, undecorated tools that the brand of old outclassed the competition with, which means that the dials, case material, and movement finishing is all elevated to match the now-luxury proposition.
Speaking of the movement, this is the one bit of news I didn’t expect from this relaunch. The Polerouter was always going to be a micro-rotor, but the Compax now follows suit, pairing it with vertical clutch, column wheel chrono architecture, and still featuring a three-day power reserve. From my knowledge, this makes it the UG-200 only currently available micro-rotor chronograph on the market, which is a neat point of difference.
Compax Capsule
The Capsule collection once again takes a more artistic approach to its expression, with the Compax examples in particular straying quite far from their original intentions. Bold colours and textile-inspired dials are the ethos of this trio, though it adds the option of a yellow gold case in addition to rose gold and steel. It shares the movement and case dimensions with the Compax Prêt-à-porter, but swaps the straps for dial-matching leather numbers.
Disco Volante Uni-Compax Signature
As someone who’s a self-professed Polerouter obsessive, surely that would be my favourite of the revived bunch. Well, thanks to the purist in me that swears by 35mm as the perfect Polerouter size, the new Uni-Compax takes the cake, which may have some Uni-Compax purists disagreeing with me. Aren’t we a fun bunch?
Back to the watch – it’s not a direct re-edition of a vintage model, rather an homage to the oversized disco volante Uni-Compax variants that have become very collectible. It gets the same micro-rotor chrono calibre as the Compax, packing it in 44mm of peak lugless design. It’s a wonderful example of how one can modernise a retrofuturistic design, especially so with that grooved, multi-stepped bezel.
Dioramic Signature and Couture
If grooves are your thing, by far the grooviest member of Universal’s relaunch is the Dioramic, completing the Signature collection. It’s a reinterpretation of a 1950s model originally known as the Monodatic, and other than a fresh coat of paint and an increase in size, is very faithful to its predecessor. It shares the UG-110 micro-rotor movement with the new Polerouters, though the date now appears at 6 o’clock in that round, recessed aperture.
For any of those collectors who can’t stomach a date whatsoever, Universal’s got them covered with the Dioramic Couture. Gem-set with nearly 2 carats of emeralds and sporting champlevé lacquer inlays, I’d hazard a guess that this watch was made for those who don’t really need to know the time super accurately – the jade dial has no indices – and much less so the date. They have people for that kind of thing.
Cabriolet Prêt-à-porter
UG’s pre-launch storytelling telegraphed this one hard, but I’m not one to complain about a new rectangular dress watch with some sort of flippy function to take it to the likes of JLC and Cartier – especially when it has such beautiful nods to Art Deco. Within the Cabriolet’s rotating case is an ultra-thin, manually wound shaped movement that helps the overall thickness stay restrained at 8mm. Case materials are once again steel or rose gold (with optional diamond setting for the latter), measuring 24.2mm across and 45mm lug to lug, most impressively retaining a 100-metre water-resistance rating. Not that I see anyone taking their Art Deco darling for a dip, but I guess you could if you wanted to!
Cabriolet Capsule De Lempicka
What better way to celebrate the Cabriolet’s 1930s design language than with a miniature painted on the caseback? Sure, that does mean the view of the calibre is obscured, but I think we’re safe giving it a pass this time. Painted by Isabelle Villa, you get to choose between three De Lempicka artworks, each portraying a bit of roaring twenties opulence. Tamara in a Green Bugatti is the obvious choice, though.
Cabriolet Mini Couture
The Cabriolet Mini Couture is ready-made to accompany its wearer at a Met Gala or the Oscars, paired with a custom Oscar de la Renta gown, perhaps. Crafted in white gold and set with baguette-cut sapphires and diamonds in a tile-like pattern, this is new UG is fitted with a quartz movement. At 31.35mm across, this is as much a cuff bracelet as it is a watch, and the mother-of-pearl marquetry dial should allay any concerns over its quartz powertrain.
Disco Mini Prêt-à-porter
Apart from all the gem-set, limited Couture pieces, the new Disco Mini is the strongest indication that the revived Universal Genève isn’t just looking to capture their masculine-leaning, vintage-loving audience. Their tagline is “couturier de la montre”, after all, and these Art Deco mid-century pieces are as good an accompaniment with business attire as they undoubtedly will be on some celebrity for a red carpet event. To fully lean into the fashion element, Universal is also offering a selection of easily interchangeable straps, a selection of them made by Julien Faure, a French ribbon-maker.
Disco Mini Capsule Lace, and Disco Mini and Maxi Couture
Upping blingy ante are Capsule Lace and Couture variants of the Disco collection, swapping the clous de Paris-engraved bezels of their Prêt-à-porter for spiky, gem-set bezels. The Capsule Lace line sees two 32mm variants in white gold and mother-of-pearl dials paired with 4.4ct of diamonds set in concentric rows. Displaying just the hours and minutes, they’re powered by the same UG-300 quartz movement found in the Mini Cabriolet Couture and other Disco Mini models.
Bringing together haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie are the two Disco Couture models. The Disco Maxi is a micro-rotor powered celebration of magenta and pink, bedecking the bezel and dial with a gradient of pink sapphires for nearly 11ct of the stuff, interlaced with ruby-heart stone, with the case reaching all the way to 44.8mm in diameter.
Its Disco Mini counterpart drops 10mm in diameter and swaps to a quartz calibre, but ups the stone variety, now including sapphires, emeralds, and aquamarines, while the dial is Aussie fire opal. Curiously, there’s no carat count for this one, but I’m reasonably certain that it should be enough for any scenario.
1 comment
Tamara in a Green Bugatti ? Oh My!