Ahead of this year’s Geneva Watch Days fair, I had the chance to discover more about a very special watch, and by extent, its creator. Founding his independent workshop in St Petersburg over 20 years ago, Konstantin Chaykin has existed as much more than a member of the currently active indie watchmaking cohort, both thanks to his influence on the community and pioneering prowess. One look at his most recent novelties barely scratches the surface of his accomplishments and versatility, including a wolf-shaped wristwatch; spacefaring, Russian-powered chronograph; and the final say on the ThinKing, the thinnest mechanical watch ever made. It’s this last creation that I was particularly excited to pick his brains about, but first, a quick overview of his GWD novelties.
Konstantin Chaykin SC02C and Wolf Wristmon
Wristwatches and space undoubtedly hold a special connection, whether as pure historical artefacts, or providing an origin story that collectors continue to fuss over. Chaykin’s take on this idea is embodied in the new SC02C, a robust mechanical chronograph measuring 44mm across, but most interestingly, featuring a reworked Poljot 3133 calibre. The Russian manufacture mentions that the decision not to develop an in-house chronograph calibre was a deliberate one, instead choosing to modify the Poljots with 60 additional components, resulting in vastly expanded utility – a 12-hour counter, hacking seconds, variable-inertia weight-equipped balance, and a shock-protecting movement damper. Chaykin’s is so confident of the movement’s reliability, in fact, that they’ll service any impact or fall-related damage free of charge.
As for its pedigree, the story goes back to 2018, when the relationship between Konstantin Chaykin and Roscosmos began, with the latter’s request from the former for an EVA-capable mechanical chronograph. The first prototypes of the Space Conqueror were delivered in 2021, going on spacewalks in June, and returning to Earth where their crystals were upgraded for greater reliability.
Cosmonauts wore Chaykin’s prototypes two further times, once in 2022 and most recently in May of 2026, where they spent six hours on the wrists of Sergey Kud-Sverchkov and Sergey Mikayev. As a result of these missions, the civilian-issue SC02C comes with a host of upgrades when compared to its early prototypes, including a dovetail-fitted crystal that prevents it from ejecting itself into orbit, a 4,800 A/m-resistant cover, and the ability to withstand the vacuum of space.
We go from a creation usually outside the remit of Chaykin’s repertoire to one that has come to define him. The Wristmons have introduced many to his name, debuting as the Joker at Baselworld nearly a decade ago. The manufacture’s latest take comes in the form of the Wolf, the second part of a five-watch East collection that started with the Panda at last year’s Geneva Watch Days. The same idea applies, with the Wolf’s eyes indicating the hours and minutes, and a modified moonphase indicator that only showcases our closest natural satellite only during the full Moon – very clever. The final lupine touches come in the form of the ears that act as upper lugs, and the multiple guilloché patterns for the canine’s facial fur.
Unlike Chaykin’s high-end creations, Wristmons have relied on third-party-supplied calibres, most recently La Joux-Perret G200. Unlike its popular G100, this movement is a more advanced development, and to my knowledge, only used by Konstantin Chaykin at the moment. Upgrades over the more affordable G100 include tighter accuracy tolerances (KC quotes -/+10 seconds per day), and a traversing bridge for improved shock-resistance, though decoration remains minimal.
How the ThinKing came to be
Borna Bošnjak: When you were initially approached with this idea, was the goal always to make the thinnest watch there was, and how did you feel about coming up against conglomerate-backed giants like Bulgari and Piaget?
Konstantin Chaykin: I don’t really see it as a challenge or a rivalry with other brands. For me, it’s first and foremost a creative and engineering puzzle. More of a challenge to myself, really. Once an idea takes shape and you find that conceptual solution, it becomes simply impossible to walk away from it. You just get this driving urge to manifest what you’ve imagined into metal and prove that the concept actually works.
BB: Did you need to change your approach to watchmaking to make the ThinKing come to life, and if so, how?
KC: Creating an ultra-thin timepiece is a vastly more complex beast than developing traditional movements. Here, you have to push way past the boundaries of standard kinematic problem-solving. You’re forced to deploy an entire suite of unconventional engineering solutions that are rarely ever seen in classical watchmaking. It is truly work on the absolute edge of physical possibilities: we are operating with mind-bogglingly precise components, designing the absolute tightest tolerances imaginable, and bringing entirely new materials into the mix. The ultimate hurdle is rethinking the architecture of the movement itself, stripping it down to be significantly thinner without sacrificing a shred of reliability. Screening and putting every single solution through its paces over extended testing requires a colossal amount of R&D. But through it all, we had a crystal-clear understanding that every objective we set was entirely doable.
BB: There are movement changes with the production model, namely a revision of the escapement and the winding system. Can you describe why these changes were made, and what the new PalanKing replacement looks like?
KC: At a record-breaking case thickness of just 1.65mm, classical watch movement components simply stop working – there is zero margin for error or structural safety in ultra-thin mechanics. Because of this, the refinement of the K.23-0 calibre touched almost every single element. In the escapement and oscillator mechanisms, the biggest headache was the placement of the balance: stacking the roller and the balance wheel on top of each other was physically impossible. So, we deployed our patented solution: a geared double balance, where the components are laid out in a single plane. In the final Mystery version, we went a step further, fine-tuning the geometry of the node and the lever escapement. This allowed us to stabilise the amplitude and reduce friction, which is absolutely critical for locking in the extended 38-hour power reserve. We also had to completely ditch the traditional winding crown on the ThinKing itself – not only would it add to the case thickness, but it would also visually clutter the ultra-sleek silhouette.
For the ThinKing Mystery, we developed an alternative to the external PalanKing carrier-case – two entirely new, independent auxiliary tools. Both devices feature built-in safety mechanisms that physically prevent the user from overwinding the barrel or putting too much tension on the mainspring. The first tool is designed as a miniature box made of ultra-high-strength carbon fiber, where the watch is placed. Inside, the flat interior surface features four spring-loaded supports positioned along the perimeter, alongside two spring-loaded axial shafts for winding and time-setting. Once the watch is nested inside and the top lid is closed, you adjust it using two wheels that partially protrude from the case. The second device is an elongated key that inserts into the correct slot on the caseback of the watch. Winding or setting the time is done simply by rotating it.
BB: The faces of your many Wristmons have become what you’re best-known for, but is there a project that you’re especially proud of that you feel defines you as a watchmaker, and that perhaps deserves more recognition?
KC: Aside from the Wristmons, the most crucial direction of my creative work is high complications. It holds a very special place in my heart, and today, there aren’t that many contemporary watchmaker-inventors who are so deeply immersed in the world of horological complications. I love complex timepieces. I understand their inner complexity – not just from a technical standpoint, but from a creative one as well. This vector is immensely interesting to me, and we have already achieved a great deal within it. At the same time, I continue to work on new, highly complicated projects. Naturally, any creator wants to be proud of all their “children” – every single movement developed, to some degree or another. But if we are talking about specific, standout achievements outside of the Wristmons and the ultra-thin watch project, I would carve out a special place for our Easter desk clocks. Conceptually, that is an incredibly demanding piece of work, both in terms of mechanics and pure craftsmanship. It will soon be twenty-four years since I created my very first watch movement, but I am still learning and evolving. Perhaps that is precisely why it is too early to talk about a definitive peak: I am still gathering experience, knowledge, technical solutions, and ideas, which might one day come together to form my true magnum opus.
BB: You’ve always been a maker of unique complications, and you’ve now set out on a new kind of “complication” with ultra-thin watchmaking. Are there any other complications or watchmaking challenges you’d like to undertake but haven’t yet?
KC: Absolutely. It’s a question I keep returning to in my own mind: where is that precise tipping point where what we consider acceptable ends and what is actually possible begins? Finding that edge and pushing past it is the one horological challenge that never really ends for me.
